This is the sixth and final part of a series of blog posts on Planning the Art. If you want to go back and read from the beginning, start here.

After all the work that goes into your art, the last thing you want is to ruin your piece by not properly protecting it. When your piece is completed you should do something to ensure the long-lasting beauty of your artwork. Some artists may put it behind UV-protectant glass and frame the piece, whereas others may seal it. Personally, I seal my pieces, so that is what the majority of this post will entail.  There is a good argument for placing it behind glass.  The intention is so you can go back and touch up the shading if it fades over time, although, this is only really for pieces that aren’t colored.

In lieu of placing my pieces behind glass, I will use a spray-on UV Protector. Even with the UV protector, the piece will fade over time, but it does slow down the process. It also helps to make sure that, when the piece is displayed, it is kept out of direct sunlight and brightly lit rooms. To further protect the piece, I will seal it to defend against moisture. Water is the enemy of wood, causing it to expand and warp.

Different kinds of Sealant

There are a number of options for sealants that can be useful in different circumstances

  • Oil-Based (non-food safe): These include Spar urethane and oil-based polyurethane. I will typically use these if I need the piece to be protected against heat and water. Coasters, for example, benefit from this as does anything that will have exposure to moisture. This is also a good option for outdoor pieces to protect against the elements.  Unfortunately, it will tint the wood yellow. Take this into consideration, especially if you are coloring your pieces. It also needs to be used in a well-ventilated area due to the odor.
  • Water-Based: This includes your water-based polyurethanes and water-based polycrylic. These are good general-purpose sealants for protecting against water and moisture.  I don’t use this for coasters as it does not protect against heat. It can be difficult to use because it can leave streaks. The best way to avoid this is to use thin layers and apply using a synthetic brush. *protip* General Finishes is an expensive water-based polyurethane but it is worth the money for fine art due to its ease of use and is less prone to streaks.
  • Wax Based: Dorland’s Wax is a good example here. This is the sealant you want to use if you are using watercolors. Since it is not water based your watercolors won’t smear and, since it is not a spray, it is more forgiving in terms of streaks. You might want to wear gloves as this can leave residue on your hands and is generally pretty messy to work with. Also, take note if you use handmade watercolors with mica or glitter as it will dull the shine. *protip* use thin layers. You can use a heat gun in between layers to soak the finish into the wood. Once you buff it out you barely even notice the finish and it looks extremely natural.
  • Food Safe: Food-safe finishes are a type of oil-based finish but are made using specific, food-safe oils. These are generally best if you are making anything that will be used for preparing or serving food. Be aware it takes longer to dry, typically requiring more layers to seal and more time in-between layers, so plan accordingly.  Also be conscientious because it will darken your wood and, like other oil based finishes, requires ventilation.
  • Mixed: I recently learned that there are mixed sealants of wax and oil. I don’t know much about it but, if you have very specific needs, it may be worth looking into.

Always read the containers for sealants for warnings. There may be very specific instructions on how to dispose of the rags and applicators. These are often flammable materials and you want to avoid them combusting. 

Types of applications

  • Spray on: Easy to use but needs ventilation.  Good to use for colors because it cuts down on smearing. May require a bit of practice to prevent drips 
  • Brush on: Most common. Use thin layers and select the right brush. For Polycrylic use a synthetic brush. For oil based use real hair. Read the instructions on what the best brush is. Use caution when applying over colors because it can smear.
  • Wipe-on: You can simply use a microfiber cloth for applying a wipe-on. Also be careful with colors.

*protip* I will typically use two coats of spray to seal the colors in before sealing the entire piece with a brush on.

Tips

  • Don’t skip on the buffing in between layers. This helps the next layer adhere to the previous layer.  It also makes sure the next layer goes on smoothly.  
  • Buff with a fine sanding sponge (usually 320 or higher) and wipe down with a microfiber cloth to make sure there is not dust when you put on the next layer. 
  • I put painters tape around the edges to help with cleanup. This way any excess sealant goes on the tape instead of on the wood. It is a lot easier to pull off a piece of tape versus sanding down a drip.  Use light tack tape to prevent pulling up previous layers.

That is it for this series.  I hope you all found this extremely informative. If you have your own tips and tricks for planning your artwork we’d love to hear them. Tag us @bz_furfur and, as always, stay unique.